Unit X: Stand Two

 

Looking back to our first tutorial, Susan commented on how we already looked like a little collection already due to each of our styles being very similar, which is the idea that led our second stand, it brought together all of our styles into one. This enabled us to start extracting key garments, such as denim/ bomber and leather jackets, jeans, dungarees, shirts, all in ones, doc martens boots, which ties in nicely with the RAF/ climbing theme that we have going. I now plan to start drawing from these photographs as the main inspiration for the collection.

 

 

This shoot also meant that we gained a new muse, someone that was a hybrid of us all, and much more relatable. Louis (worked out perfectly that there was a man in our working group), is featured wearing all of our glasses, a trendy and quirky alternative to our original muse. As we'd also noticed that we all own a pair of Doc /martens (as well as them moulding perfectly into the narrative), we thought this would be fitting as a continuous pair of shoes throughout the collection.

Unit X: Contextualise: Boro and Jen Kao

As a contextual reference to my own denim samples, I looked at two inspirational fashion designers/ companies. Jen Kao is an American fashion designer. Her Fall 13/14 collection felt clean and structured even though it consisted of worn patches. I felt that the denim wear as a durable fabric was relevant to the sample that I will be doing myself on the loom.

Fall 2013/2014

 

Boro focuses on traditional Japanese craft, generally how you repair and patch clothing. I felt that this would be a great reference due to the survival theme running through this project, and how clothes become torn, ripped and weathered after being worn in weathered conditions. These are some techniques we may want to explore as a group together.

 

 

 

Unit X: Stand



 

Our original stand was based on trekking and survival wear. This included garments with lots of pockets, cargo and climbing shorts, harnesses, carabiners and ropes. This instantly enabled us to visualise more solidly, the theme of our collection. I now plan to start some studies from these, to collage and create new garments. 

 

 

 

As far as the climbing equipment goes, I may want to experiment with scale of these within some collage. I feel that these would make some great accessories to attach to jeans and jackets.

 

Unit X: Muse

 

Our Muse has been taken from our original inspiration for this project, 'RAF pilot crashes and parachutes into the rainforest'. I feel that this needs to be more than just a stern pilot, and we need to experiment as a group with someone much more relatable.

 



 

 

 

Unit X: Embroidery Samples

Over the Easter holidays, I took it upon myself to do some intricate embroidery samples as I couldn't utilise the looms for weaving in Uni. These small samples were inspired by aerial shots of the rainforest which came from secondary sources on Google Maps. I did these samples with the intentions of using them as patches on garments, just like the RAF uniform would have badges and patches on theirs. However, these could also be used in other ways such as trimmings down either side of button holes, trims down legs, or motifs for the back of jackets. If I'd have had more time, I'd have liked to have made them bigger so that they were more striking, however I struggled with this as it was time consuming.

 

Unit X: Concept

My initial reason for doing this as my Unit X project was that I'd never stepped foot into designing for fashion before now. I am interested to see whether this project will sway my decision on the area of textiles I wish to design for (usually interiors). If I don't do this project now, then I'd probably never have the opportunity again.

 

Whilst in New York, my Unit X group started the Fashion: Client brief that we'd been given. This is a live brief for James Long, a menswear designer. James long was the perfect client for me doing fashion for the first time. 'His work represents a strong, directional man, incorporating elements like leather and knits in neutral colours to highlights this aesthetic.'- Browns Fashion.

 

JAMES LONG FALL 2014

 JAMES LONG FALL 2015

 

Our concept was originally initiated with the narrative 'RAF Pilot crashes and parachutes into the rainforest'. This set our sights on sportswear, survival wear (including climbing wear) and durable fabrics, clashed with textiles based on the rivers, plants and textures of the rainforest. I feel that this gives me a lot of scope for creating samples in weave as my textiles specialism, but also allows for a structured collection to arise easily when designing.

New York: Studio Visits

Our trip to New York consisted of three organised studio tours that related to our specialist practice. This added excitement to our trip and an insight into how real companies design and produce.

The Rug company was my most inspiring studio visit. Set in Soho, The Rug Company had the most beautiful showroom, showcasing incredible hand woven designs. One of my favourite things about this visit was that the Head of Sales, Ricky Booth, studied his Textiles Degree at Manchester School of Art, and now as a family, living in Brooklyn, New York. This was considerably inspiring coming from the same University and knowing the positions that are potentially achievable once I graduate.

 

The Rug Company collaborated with many famous designers (generically known for their work in fashion), such as Alexander McQueen, Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood, and their style in design is made apparent in the weave structures and colours of the specialist rugs. I'd never thought about going into Rugs as a textile option before visiting this studio, but I was captivated by the way they were made.

Maharam

Maharam is a provider of textiles for commercial and residential interiors. The studio was a very clean and open space, and has stunning views looking right over the Brooklyn bridge. I was mainly interested in this visit as they stock only for interiors, which is an area that I specifically would like to go into.

This was one of my favourite designs, 'Agency' by Sarah Morris, specifically woven as fabric for upholstery. This Jacquard woven material comes in four different colour ways and was a beautiful mix of retro and contemporary design.

Studio Brad (Bradley Rothenberg)

 

 

Bradley Rothenberg are a 3D printing company that design for fashion, jewellery and accessories. They are weaving their way into high end fashion such as Victoria's Secret, Katie Gallagher and Katya Leonovitch, showcasing on the runway. I feel that this studio visit didn't entirely inspire me or cater towards my specialist practice, however, it taught me so much about digital printing that I previously didn't know. I was amazed at the design software the company used to create interlocking, flexible, cellular textiles.